Since the whole purpose of the EPCS is to mitigate the need for a human to turn two stopcocks twice per minute, we need to replace the stopcocks with electric control and that means an solenoid pneumatic valve. The arrangement of the stopcocks was such that one port needed to communicate with either of two pressure reservoirs, thus a single 3-way valve is sufficient. I started googling for suitable valves and found lots of options in the $100 price range -- $100 to replace a 50¢ piece of plastic. This wouldn't have exceeded the budgetary constraints of the project, quite, but I knew that entire non-invasive blood pressure cuff systems (the kind for occasional personal use) sell for about $40 and during development work I'd rather have a spare than a really sturdy valve costing twice as much, so I kept looking and eventually found two models for about $16, call it $20 each once you factor in shipping. The catch is that the documentation available on the seller's website is sorely lacking. I took one approach to solving that -- order the valves early enough to receive them in time for some simple testing before finalizing the design. Apparently if I had tried a little harder I would have found somewhat better documentation at the manufacturer's site, but although this lets me confirm the required wattage I'm still uncertain about the actual electrical connections, I figure there will either be a separate drive coil for each of the two energized positions, or else a single pair of contacts which receives either +12V or -12V to reach either position.
(At this point I find the real explanation, which isn't linked from the seller or even the manufacturer's product page, and finally understand. I should have asked my ME and ChE sisters, who with a combined total of 13 years in engineering school, certainly already knew these little details.)
Aarrgh! Yes, I'm an electrical engineer, and I clearly didn't know what 3-way normally closed (NC) valves were when I ordered them. Look, 2-way valves are easy, there are two ports and two positions, open and closed. If the valve is normally closed, then it's closed when not powered, and open when energized. And if normally open (NO), it's closed when energized and open when not. So far so good. But apparently things get complicated when you get to 3-way valves. There are three ports comprising one "inlet" capable of connecting to either of two "outlets", and presumably permitting flow in either direction despite the naming. That's what I expected. I ordered a normally closed valve, because I thought that like the 2-way NC valve, there would be no flow unless energized. But no, although there are NO and NC variants for 3-way valves, there are still only two positions and both variants have exactly the same behavior, one outlet is open when energized and closed at rest, while the other outlet is closed when energized and open at rest. The only difference between the NO and NC valves is which of the two outlets is in the body and which is, well, elsewhere.
Well, the good news is that having only two positions, the valve is driven completely using a single solenoid coil either energized to +12V or off, no -12V required and no complicated (and power-hungry) voltage inverter. The other good news is that this valve will work. The bad news is that I have to keep the solenoid energized with about 5W for as long as I need pressure equal to the second reservoir, because as soon as the power stops the "normally open" reservoir becomes connected again. Oh, and yet one more piece of good news is that these valves, listed as "pneumatic" by the reseller, actually work with liquids as well, which is good because many of the lab's experiments involve starting and stopping IV fluids, and flexibility is good. On the other hand, 0.9% saline might not qualify as "inert".
If I want to be able to pressurize the system and then hold the pressure by stopping all flow (both fluid and power), which would be a significant savings in power and thus improvement in battery life, I can use a pair of normally closed two-way valves or the equivalent 3-position 4-way valve which is what I had been expecting to have gotten to begin with. Both would use two solenoid coils at 0 or +12V, still no need for inversion.
Anyway, these valves require 12V high current "digital" control. Digital only in the sense that the signal should be either on or off, no proportional control (they make fancier valves for that), but "discrete" would probably be a better word since they are definitely not compatible with digital logic which outputs 3.3V at up to typically 25mA. I found a boost regulator which sources up to 18V (adjustable) output, plenty of current, and has a 3.3V-compatible digital enable input. In addition the efficiency is nearly 90% and quiescent current is very low at 75μA so this won't be hurting battery life. I'd feel better if the input voltage range extended a little beyond 6V, but the maximum ratings indicate it's safe up to 7V and it should be rare for a battery to be over its rated voltage. TI provides a very nice example circuit as well as detailed information on selecting the external components. I'll use as many of the example values as possible and just adjust the output voltage to 12V, while using the more efficient lower frequency option.
Here is the circuit for up to two valves:
Wow, that's a lot of components for something so simple. I can't imagine how bad it would be without an IC doing the boost conversion, probably I would just use a 12V battery. I should ask my sisters that inertness question before I forget.
Power budget: 1mW continuous + 4.5W on 10% duty cycle. The duty cycle drops to 2% if I substitute the 2-way valves.